Towards the 21st century

Now part of the Swatch Group, the largest watchmaking group in the world, Longines entered the 21st century in fine form. Although during the 1980s the continued existence of the Swiss watchmaking industry seemed to be painfully in doubt, the series of restructurings of production means (undertaken at the instigation of the SMH Group), the adoption of a strict and streamlined positioning on the market, and possibly also the fact of watches losing their status as functional objects, are doubtless sufficient to explain the globally positive development enjoyed by Longines up to the end of the 20th century. With the rationalisation of the production facilities carried out within the context of the Swatch Group, Longines saw a significant growth in its production capacity.

The beginning of the 21st century heralded a new economic trend for the watchmaking industry. The watch, having lost its status as a functional item and an essential piece of equipment in the modern world, is becoming an ”emotional” object. At the same time, the mechanical movement is being re-evaluated and perceived in a different light. While the communication and marketing campaigns carried out by the Swiss watchmaking industry played an important role in this change of status – electronics and quartz having threatened its very existence – it is also important to note that mechanical watches are associated with values vastly different to those of quartz and of functional timepieces. Mechanical watches embody a set of significant values which include aspects of tradition, historical expertise and even a way of life. In the years since 2000, mechanical watches have experienced a success which is in marked contrast to the forecasts that managers of watchmaking companies might have issued in the 1980s. At the beginning of the 21st century, the proportion of mechanical watches sold by Longines is clearly increasing. Within the context of the mechanical watch’s steady return to favour among customers, the Saint-Imier company has introduced a collection which is dedicated to its watchmaking tradition. This is known as The Longines MasterCollection, and is entirely made up of mechanical watches (with manual or automatic winding). In 2007 the brand also presented an entirely new timepiece to complete the range dedicated to celebrating the company’s watchmaking tradition, The Longines MasterCollection Retrograde. Conscious of the profound changes affecting the market for timepieces, such as the revival of the mechanical watch, Longines commissioned ETA, the company responsible for the construction and production of the calibre within the Swatch Group, with the development of a mechanical movement. At the instigation of the winged-hourglass brand, ETA accordingly developed two versions of a completely new self-winding movement fitted with retrograde functions, and used exclusively by Longines. Also in 2007, Longines reaffirmed its links with the world of sport, investing in sporting disciplines that match the company’s values. In parallel, the brand launched a wide range of sporty watches, The Longines Sport Collection, representing a continuation at product level of Longines’ enduring commitment to sports timing.