How to set a watch – the connoisseur’s guide

Setting a fine Swiss watch is more than turning a crown—it is a carefully choreographed ritual that preserves precision, safeguards delicate components, and pays homage to centuries of horological craftsmanship. Whether you wear a hand‑wound heritage piece, an automatic with a transparent case‑back, or a high‑precision quartz companion, the principles below will keep your timepiece accurate and in peak condition.

Before manipulating any crown, take a moment to identify the beating heart inside your watch. Each calibre is engineered for a specific energy source and crown architecture; knowing these details spares you costly mistakes and helps you extract the best performance from your instrument.

A mechanical or hand‑wound watch is powered exclusively by a coiled mainspring. As the spring gradually unwinds, it drives a finely tuned gear train that moves the hands with poetic smoothness. Because torque declines as the mainspring relaxes, daily winding keeps amplitude high and accuracy stable.

An automatic watch is a mechanical movement equipped with a freely pivoting rotor that converts your wrist’s motion into winding energy. This self‑winding mechanism means the watch stays charged during regular wear, yet it can also be hand‑wound when power is low—offering the best of both traditions.

The quartz watch calibres rely on a battery and a vibrating quartz crystal to regulate time. The crystal oscillates 32,768 times per second, allowing the integrated circuit to advance the hands with remarkable precision—often within 15 seconds per month. Lowdrain‑ electronics translate to long service intervals and superb shock resistance.

*Some complications add a fourth position for GMT or moonphase‑. Consult your booklet for model ‑specificcations.

Why it matters: A manual watch will not build power on the wrist; an automatic rotor cannot charge a fully depleted barrel without a jumpstart; and some quartz calibres offer hacking seconds for pinpoint synchronization. Matching your actions to the calibre prevents wear and keeps timekeeping within factory tolerances.

Master watchmakers treat every setting session as a miniature service operation. By replicating their habits, you minimise the risk of slipping tools, contaminated gaskets, or calendar damage.

1. Choose a clean, padded surface. A soft cloth prevents case‑back scratches if the watch slips.
2. Wash and dry your hands. Natural oils can migrate onto the crown gasket.
3. Unscrew the crown gently if your watch features a screwdown‑ system for water resistance. Turn it counter‑clockwise until it “pops” to position 0. 
4. .Avoid the “danger zone.” For mechanical movements with a date wheel, refrain from changing the date during the time frame specified in your model’s manual on the Longines website, as it can vary depending on the calibre. For many movements, this is roughly between 8 p.m. and 4 a.m., when the calendar gears are partially engaged and forcing them can shear teeth.

Tip: If you cannot remember whether you are inside the danger zone, simply move the hands past 4 a.m. before touching the date mechanism.

Hand-wound movements are the purest expression of mechanical timekeeping, but they require regular attention. While most Longines manual calibres have more than 24 hours of power reserve, a steady winding routine with gentle technique will help maximise amplitude and chronometric stability.

1. Wind first. In position 1, rotate the crown clockwise 20–30 times. Resistance will increase; stop at the slightest tension to avoid overwinding.
2. Pull to time-setting position 2 (manual-wind watches generally have no date adjustment). Turn the hands clockwise until the minute and hour align. For near-perfect alignment, advance past the target minute, then reverse slightly to remove gear slack (known as backlash).
3. Synchronise seconds (optional). Many modern hand‑wound calibres hack— the second hand stops—when the crown is out. Wait for a reference signal (e.g., an atomic clock), then push the crown back to position 0 exactly at 00 seconds.
4. Secure the crown. Water-‑resistance is only guaranteed once the crown is firmly tightened but never forced.

Why wind first? Tensioning the mainspring before moving the hands prevents the escapement from skating and keeps wear on the centre wheel to a minimum.

Automatic movements pair convenience with traditional mechanics. While the rotor keeps the barrel charged during wear, the watch still benefits from occasional manual winding—especially if left dormant.

1. Give it an initial charge. If the watch is fully stopped, wind it in position 1 to prime the mainspring—the exact number of turns varies by calibre (from around 20 up to over 100). The balance wheel needs this initial energy to start oscillating; wrist movement alone may not be enough.
2. Set the date first (position 3). Rotate the crown slowly until yesterday’s date appears, then pull to time‑setting position 2 and advance the hands past midnight. The date will “click” to today—ensuring AM/PM alignment.
3. Set the time. As with manual watches, turn only clockwise. If your model allows both directions, default to clockwise to minimise gear play.
4. Return crown to position 0 and screw down. A slight pinch between thumb and forefinger is ample; overtightening can damage threads or seals.

Quartz calibres offer unwavering regularity, but they still deserve a client’s touch. Proper setting habits prolong battery life and preserve the delicate stepper motor.

1. Stop the seconds. Pull the crown to timesetting‑ position 2; many quartz movements halt the second hand (hacking) for precise synchronisation. Be aware that some movements may create higher battery consumption when the crown is pulled out.
2. Adjust the date (if present). With the crown in position 0, pull it to position 1 and rotate until yesterday’s number shows. Go to position 2 and advance the hands past midnight to reach today’s date—mirroring the technique for automatic watches ensures AM/PM accuracy.
3. Push crown fully to position 0. If the model has a screwdown‑ system, secure it to maintain water resistance.
4. Check battery health. A jumping second hand (moving in four‑second intervals) or sluggish minute changes signal low voltage; schedule a professional battery replacement and pressure test.

Complications enrich a watch’s functionality, but they also introduce new fragilities. Approach each additional module with patience and refer to the official manual when uncertain.

• Chronograph hands misaligned? The reset procedure can vary depending on the movement system. On some models, you can pull the crown to the time-setting position, press both pushers simultaneously for two seconds, then use the top pusher to advance the chronograph seconds hand to 12 o’clock. Repeat for the minute and hour totalisers if needed. Always refer to your model’s manual for the exact method.
• GMT/Second Time Zone: Position 3 often controls the independent 24‑hour hand. Set local time first, then adjust the GMT hand in one‑hour increments.
• Moon‑phase: Only correct when the display shows a full‑moon icon to avoid misalignment. Use a lunar calendar to know the current phase.

Remember that each added complication uses a dedicated gear train. Treat those gears with respect—avoid rapid‑fire pusher presses or date changes under crown pressure.

Your responsibilities do not end once the hands align. Post‑setting habits determine long‑term accuracy and longevity.

1. Moisture check. A slight fog under the crystal indicates gasket failure—have it serviced immediately to prevent rust by a Longines certified watchmaker.
2. Wind consistency. Manual watches prefer routine: same time, same number of turns each day.
3. Service intervals. Mechanical movements should receive a full overhaul every 3–5 years (oil renewal, gasket replacement, timekeeping regulation); quartz movements require battery and seal changes at three-year intervals.
4. Magnetic fields. Keep your watch at least 10 cm from phone speakers, magnetic clasps, and induction chargers. If it begins to run erratically, a quick demagnetisation by a Longines certified watchmaker restores accuracy.

Even the best-protected calibre benefits from gentle handling: remove your watch when playing racquet sports, avoid shock from dropping on hard surfaces, and store it in a soft pouch if not worn for extended periods. For storage, there is no need to keep the crown facing up. If storing with the crown pulled out, note that on some quartz calibres this may cause increased battery consumption

Most setting mishaps are born from haste. Familiarise yourself with the pitfalls below and you will add years to your watch’s healthy life.

Preventive knowledge is cheaper than a full movement overhaul—write these four mistakes on a card and keep it in your watch box.

A well‑crafted timepiece is both an instrument and an heirloom. Treat the crown as a precision tool, respect the movement’s engineering, and your watch will not only tell time flawlessly, but also carry memories across generations. When in doubt—whether about crown positions, complication quirks, or water‑resistance ratings—consult your official instruction manual or entrust the task to an authorised watchmaker. Your watch—and those who inherit it—will thank you.