How to remove links from a watch?

A loose bracelet compromises comfort, accuracy, and the refined look of a luxury watch. Resizing it is a micro-watchmaking task: done correctly, it preserves the movement and the polished edges while restoring a seamless drape. With proper tools and a disciplined approach, removing a link or two is safe, reversible, and scratch-free. This guide explains Longines bracelet architectures and walks you through each technique so you can achieve a perfectly balanced fit.

A well-adjusted bracelet brings three key benefits. First, it maximises comfort: if a bracelet is even a single link too long, the watch head tends to slide under the wrist-bone, which becomes irritating over the course of a day. Second, the correct length can help with the watch’s overall wear and condition, as a bracelet that keeps the watch stable on the wrist reduces unnecessary jolts and movement, helping to protect the case and preserve comfort over time. Finally, a properly sized bracelet enhances aesthetics; with the centre links aligned and free of lateral play, polished surfaces are better protected from unexpected knocks.

Many enthusiasts use a thumb-tack or SIM-eject tool in a pinch, but a purpose-made pusher costs less than one replacement link and prevents collateral scratches.

1. Spread a lint-free cloth on a sturdy table; a stray collar can bounce metres away on hardwood.
2. Open the clasp and lay the bracelet flat, case up.
3. Locate the arrows on the back of each removable link. These indicate the direction the pin or collar exits.
4. Decide how many links to remove—usually one on each side of the clasp preserves centring.

1. Bracelet in holder, arrows pointing down.
2. Insert the 1 mm pusher into the pin head; press until the pin emerges 1–2 mm on the opposite side. For safety, this step should be performed by a trained Longines certified watchmaker, as simply pressing on the tool is not recommended.
3. With fine pliers, pull the pin and its tiny split collar out together.
4. Repeat on the second pin to free a full link.
5. Remove identical link(s) from the other side of the clasp to maintain symmetry.
6. Reassembly: Push the pin against the arrow until flush, ensuring it is properly aligned and secure.

Split pins grip by friction, if you feel no resistance, the pin may not be seated correctly. Ensure it is fully inserted and flush with the link. Spares are seldom supplied.

1. Fit the bracelet in the holder, slot or hex head facing up.
2. Select a driver bit that fills the screw head completely; any play mars polished flanks.
3. Apply gentle, even torque anti-clockwise. Never brace the opposite screw head with another driver—these are single-ended bars.
4. Withdraw the bar; keep it aligned with the link orientation to avoid mixing lengths (centre-link bars can differ by 0.3 mm).
5. Remove matching link(s) on the clasp’s far side.
6. Reassembly: Introduce the bar from the non-notched side; tighten to a firm stop (~10–12 cN·m). A spot of low-strength thread-locker is optional but recommended on high-impact sports models such as HydroConquest GMT Longines.

Most modern clasps include two or three micro-adjustment holes that let you shorten or lengthen the bracelet in roughly two-millimetre increments without removing any links. If your watch features a diver-extension, make sure that this extension is fully closed before you judge the bracelet length; otherwise you will end up with extra slack. As a rule of thumb, aim for enough space to slip a single finger between clasp and wrist on a warm afternoon, because both skin and steel expand slightly with heat.

As long as the clasp remains centred and at least four links in total stay on each side, structural integrity is preserved.

Some bracelets use screws on both sides with a pin running through the centre. In this system, the pin is not friction-fitted, so both screws must be fully removed before the pin can be taken out. Follow the correct method for this configuration rather than the push-pin approach.

Yes—the process mirrors steel, but titanium is more brittle. Work slowly and protect flat surfaces with Kapton tape to avoid bright scuff marks unique to titanium grain Longines.

Most high-end makers cover the movement under warranty, not cosmetic wear. Nonetheless, any damage to lugs, links or clasp during home adjustment is deemed misuse. If your watch is under twofive-year international guarantee, consider an authorised boutique.

Authorised dealers can order reference-specific spare-parts kits. Independent watch-part suppliers also stock generic 1.5 mm pins compatible with many three-link bracelets, but tolerances vary—always measure with a caliper first.

Adjusting a steel bracelet is entirely achievable with the right tools, patience and respect for the materials. By following the arrow cues on push-pin bracelets, matching link removal symmetrically, and torqueing screw-bars with care, you preserve both the technical finesse and the aesthetic purity that define fine watchmaking. When in doubt—particularly with ceramic, gold or vintage pieces—entrust the task to a certified watchmaker. After all, precision is the very essence of timekeeping.

Next step for owners: Once your bracelet fits perfectly, explore strap-change possibilities—rubber for summer regattas or alligator for evening attire—to freshen the look without compromising Longines’ understated elegance.